Feel like making a zipped sweatshirt but don’t want to buy a new pattern? You’re in the right place! I’ll tell you all there is to know to add a zipper to the TITUS or Maxi-TITUS hoodie patterns (or any other hoodie pattern, for that matter!).
For those who’ve already sewn a Titus hoodie, you know that I don’t line the hood! For one, I’m lazy and I own that, but I sincerely think that a simple hem to finish the edge of the hood is a more that acceptable finish. However, when I started thinking of inserting a zipper in my hoodie, I racked my brain for a while to find the best way to hide the neckline seam at the junction with the hood, and make the zipper work for (almost) all neckline options. The use of a facing finally revealed itself to me as the solution to all my problems, and I’ll tell you here, in details, how to draw and sew it for impeccable finishes, whether you’ve picked the hood, the turtleneck or the crewneck (the overlapped collar, meanwhile, will not be treated here).
As for the pockets, adding the zipper will be possible for all options (the kangaroo pocket will be transformed into 2 half kangaroo pockets, the side pockets and the chest pocket will remain unchanged).
For the comfort touch, and a cool detail, I also propose a small zipper guard, to add to the upper part of the zipper, to avoid irritating your poor little chin!
All values are given in centimeters.
To make this zipped sweatshirt, you will need:
- a main fabric for the body of the garment with an elasticity of at least 30% (sweatshirt, stretch fleece, stretch fleece...) – footage provided in the basic tutorial, depending on chosen pocket and neckline options,
- knit ribbing for the waistband, wrists and crewneck, (measure the elasticity of the ribbing, you will need it!) – footage provided in the basic tutorial according to the neckline options,
- 1 separable zipper for the front, minimum length is given in the tables below, depending on the size (kids sizes = tailles enfants, adult sizes = tailles adultes, first row of tables are for hood and crewneck options, second row is for turtle neck option).
Adjustments to pattern pieces and fabric cutting
Seam allowances are included and are of 6mm, if no further indication is given.
In main fabric
Pieces 2-Back, 3-Sleeve, 4-Hood, 7-Side Pocket, 8-Side Pocket lining and 9-Chest Pocket will not be modified and will be cut (if these options are chosen, of course) according to the basic pattern tutorial.
Adding seam allowance for the zipper
Pieces 1-Front, 5-Kangaroo Pocket and 6-Turtleneck must be adjusted to accommodate the zipper. These pieces will not be cut on the fold of the fabric, as intended in the basic pattern, but they will be cut twice, after adding a 1cm seam allowance all along the front middle.
Tracing of facing and zipper guard
The facing is the piece that will hide the zipper on the inside of the garment. You will therefore need 2 of them, and they will have exactly the same height and shape (at the neckline) as the middle of the modified piece 1-Front (with added seam allowance). For kids sizes, draw a 5cm wide (6cm for adult sizes) strip along fabric straight grain (Droit fil du tissu), at least as high as piece 1-Front. Then, align cut 1-Front piece on this strip, and trace the neckline curve starting from the middle (see diagram below).
The zipper guard is a small lined semicircle that will straddle the top of the zipper. This semicircle will have a radius of 4cm (a diameter of 8cm), and will also be oriented in direction of fabric straight grain. Cut facing and zipper guard twice.
In knit ribbing
The waistband, wristbands and side pocket bands will not be modified. Refer to the basic pattern tutorial to cut them.
If you choose to sew the crewneck, it will have to undergo a small adjustment. Cut the neckline according to dimensions given in the basic pattern tutorial. Fold the strip in half, width-wise. Make a mark 5cm from the edge, at the top and bottom of the strip (A), as well as in the middle of the short raw edge (B). Then draw a gentle curve between these points to give its (symmetrical) shape to the neck band.
Mounting the pockets
Start by mounting the pockets you have chosen. The side pockets and chest pockets are mounted normally, as with the basic Titus sweatshirt.
Half kangaroo pockets
Mounting the body
Assemble the sleeves to the body, then close the sides and sleeves with a single (overlock) seam, according to basic tutorial.
Assemble wrist bands according to basic tutorial.
Mounting the waistband and facing
Assembly of neckline option
Assemble the hood according to the tutorial of the basic pattern, after making the buttonholes and slide for the cord.
Assemble both sides of the turtleneck, according to the basic tutorial: with RS together, sew an overlock stitch along the back of the turtleneck (the rounded side of the pieces).
Mounting the separable zipper
Hood and crewneck options
On RS, make sure that both sides of the neckline are aligned, as well as both sides of the belt.
If one side is longer than the other, partially rip out the zipper seam on the shorter side, and re-mount the zipper, slightly stretching the fabric to make up the gap.
Mounting of the zipper is done in the same way on the turtleneck, except that the zipper does not stop at the neckline seam, but at the top of the turtleneck. The difficulty lies in the fact that, at this stage, the collar being sewn to the body, it is impossible to turn it entirely inside out. It will therefore be necessary to arrange to have raw edges of collar middle front laying flat, turning them inside out through the space left along the width of the facing. You can then insert the zipper and sew it, being careful not to sew the excess fabric of the turtleneck that piles up nearby...
Using zipper foot, sew with a straight stitch (no stretch), along the zipper, starting from the bottom. Stop the seam right after the top fold of the zipper, to secure it in this position. Repeat with other side of zipper without zipper guard, make sure alignment is correct on RS and cut excess of zipper tape.
All that is left to do is topstitch the zipper and neckline with a single seam. Topstitch the zipper with a (non stretch) straight stitch 5mm from the fold of the fabric, then topstitch the neckline, with a straight STRETCH stitch 2mm under the neckline seam, and finish on the other side of the zipper.
You’re all done! Leave a comment or ask a question down here, and if you like this, let me know! #isewtituszippe @atelieradriette