The idea of a bomber jacket had been in my head for a while, so now that fall is here, I decided to go for it! As usual, I threw myself into the project and tackled a series of bomber jackets for the whole family! The only one left to make is Dad’s!
I wanted it lined, with zipped pockets and an inner piped pocket for my phone... I could have started from scratch and drawn a new bomber jacket pattern altogether, but I decided to adapt it from my TITUS hoodie pattern. In this article, I’ll show you exactly how I proceeded, step by step and I’ll give you all the necessary tips to adapt it according to your size! I'll even let you in on a little secret: these adaptations are probably valid for many other sweatshirt patterns...
Click on the images to zoom in!
All values are given in centimeters.
To make this bomber jacket, you’ll need:
- a main fabric for the jacket: choose it water-repellent or waterproof it afterwards, stretchy or not, if you opt for a thin fabric, do not hesitate to add interface to it (this step is not discussed in this tutorial),
- a fabric for the lining: opt for fleece or warm quilted fabric, or a lighter fabric if you are not looking for warmth,
- scraps for pockets (from the main fabric or a contrasting fabric),
- knit ribbing for the waistband, wristbands and collar, (measure the elasticity of the ribbing, it will be useful!),
- 1 separating zipper for the front opening and 2 zippers for the pockets.
The fabric and lining can be either stretchy or not. If both fabrics are stretchy, always use a stretch stitch. If one of the fabrics is not stretchy, a stretch stitch is not necessary.
Pick the right size
The TITUS sweatshirt has an ease of 16cm (20cm for kids’ sizes) at the chest, which is enough for a jacket, without changing the width of the garment, even with a non-stretchy fabric. However, if your measurements are between two sizes, go for the size above instead.
Adaptation of pattern pieces and fabric cutting
The seam allowances are included and are 6mm, if no further indication is given.
The pattern pieces you’ll be using for this project are: 1-Front, 2-Back, 3-Sleeves and 5-Kangaroo Pocket.
Start by folding a 3cm strip at the bottom of pieces 1-Front and 2-Back (2cm for sizes 2, 3, 4 and 5 years of the Titus sweatshirt for children). The finished length of the bomber jacket will therefore be 3 cm (or 2cm) shorter than the finished sweatshirt. Also fold the pocket according to this diagram.
The other adaptations will be traced directly on the fabrics.
In main fabric:
Position piece 2-Back (folded in the lower part) on the fold, and piece 1-Front (also folded, but not on the fold of the fabric, we will cut 2 Fronts after making some modifications) and 3-Sleeves.
Around piece 1-Front, draw a line 1cm along the front middle (seam allowance for zipper), as well as a rectangle in the lower part, according to the diagram below, referring to the dimensions given for your size. In the rest of this tutorial, I will call this outgrowth the "small square", for lack of a better idea!
Then draw a rectangular pocket (inner piped pocket) according to the dimensions given in the table, as well as a rectangle for the piping of this pocket.
Also draw the facing: it is the width of the rectangle added in the lower part of front, the same height as front, and it follows the neckline shape of front. For this facing, I suggest cutting your modified front parts, then set them on the uncut fabric to trace the height of the cladding and trace the rounded neckline.
Finally, widen the sleeves at the wrists on each side, by an f value, given in the following table according to your size.
In the lining:
Keep the lower fold in pieces 1-Front and 2-Back.
Make another fold on piece 1-Front, along the middle line in front at a distance g, given in the table below depending on your size.
Finally, widen the sleeves, in the same way as before, at the wrists.
Cut the Back once on the fold, the modified Front twice and the sleeves twice.
In the knit ribbing:
Depending on the elasticity (E) of your knit ribbing, refer to the table below to determine the dimensions of the belt, wrists (2) and collar.
The belt and wrists cut to these dimensions are ready for use. The collar still needs to be adapted. To do this, fold the collar in half, width-wise. Make a mark in the middle of the folded length (A), as well as a middle of the short raw edge (B). Then draw a gentle curve between these points to give its (symmetrical) shape to the collar.
Pin a pocket on a front, with right sides (RS) together. The pocket should be roughly centered on the width of the front, 2 cm above the bottom edge, with oblique edge oriented to the side.
Draw a rectangle 1 cm wide, parallel to the oblique edge of the pocket and located about 3 cm from the edge. Its length will be at least 3 cm shorter than the finished length of zips for pockets.
Inner piped pocket
Assembly of jacket and lining
At this stage, it is necessary to check if the reversal of the jacket will be possible through the sleeve. For this, try to pass the body of the jacket through the closed sleeve of the lining, also try to pass the lining through the sleeve of the jacket, and then turn the jacket inside out and the lining inside out, passing through the sleeve.
If all these manipulations are possible, close the second side of the lining, including the sleeve.
Otherwise, sew the second sleeve+side seam of the lining, leaving an opening of about 20 cm (sew the sleeve, the armpit, then stop the seam a few centimeters under the armpit, and finish the seam in the lower part, 20cm further).
Assembly of the waistband (beware! this is, in my opinion, the most tricky step!)
Turn the lining inside out (leaving the "small square" folded with WS together), and stack it on the jacket, aligning the lower edges.
Pin the jacket and lining along the bottom edge, with RS together, pining the 2 raw edges of the waistband between them, aligning all raw edges.
Be sure to match the back middles of each piece, the side seams, and stretch the belt evenly.
Assembly of separating zipper
Assembly of collar
Turning outside out and finishing
Turn the work outside out by passing it through a sleeve, or through the opening left in the side seam of lining.
If you left an opening in the lining, close it by hand, with an invisible stitch. Here is an effective video tutorial: tuto couture invisible – YouTube
Insert the sleeves of the lining into the sleeves of the jacket, aligning the seams.
All that’s left to do is top-stitch the entire perimeter with one seam:
For example, start at the bottom of a zipper, on the "small "square", top stitch with a straight stitch 5 mm from the edge, going towards the waistband, go up along the ribbing, then top stitch above the waistband, the other "small square", the first side of the zipper, the neckline (for the neckline, I prefer to stitch 2mm from the edge), and finally the other side of the zipper.
If you've made it this far, bravo! You're done! It's a bit long, but what a satisfaction! Leave a comment or a question at the bottom of this page!