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Two super easy hacks for the KIM legging pattern

By 28 September 2023#!29Sun, 18 Feb 2024 19:40:56 +0100+01:005629#29Sun, 18 Feb 2024 19:40:56 +0100+01:00-7+01:002929+01:00x29 18pm29pm-29Sun, 18 Feb 2024 19:40:56 +0100+01:007+01:002929+01:00x292024Sun, 18 Feb 2024 19:40:56 +0100407402pmSunday=3520#!29Sun, 18 Feb 2024 19:40:56 +0100+01:00+01:002#February 18th, 2024#!29Sun, 18 Feb 2024 19:40:56 +0100+01:005629#/29Sun, 18 Feb 2024 19:40:56 +0100+01:00-7+01:002929+01:00x29#!29Sun, 18 Feb 2024 19:40:56 +0100+01:00+01:002#Pattern hack

That’s it, kids are back in school, getting used to their new routine or have been returned to their parents, and it’s time for some of us to get back to the gym! It’s not always easy to find the courage to work out, but here is a project that I hope will get you back on track!

Here are two very simple hacks for the KIM legging pattern, that you can either try out separately or combine on a single project.

They are also suitable for the Mini-KIM pattern !

Let me show you!

Straight back waistband

You may already know, the basic KIM legging pattern has a V-shaped back waistband and, as an option, a gathered back crotch seam. The first variation I’d like to show you today will remove this V shape as well as the gathers, and will be even quicker to sew, for a more basic result.

This variation is applicable to any length option of original pattern (long leggings, mid-calf leggings, bike shorts or shorts).


You can refer to yardage table given in original tutorial depending of desired length. The waistband modification will not cause any quantity change.

Cutting the fabric

As per original tutorial, cut:

  • Pieces 1-Front, 3-Side and 6-Pocket, twice, in desired length,
  • Piece 2-Back, twice, in desired length, making sure to cut the top of the pieces along line for gathered back crotch seam (back crotch seam will in fact not be gathered but this added height will be necessary to remove the original V shape in the back), en prenant soin de couper le long du trait pour une fourche froncée (la fourche ne sera, en réalité, pas froncée, mais cette hauteur supplémentaire est nécessaire pour supprimer la forme de V dans le dos),
  • Piece 4-Front Waistband, twice, on fold of fabric ; in deed, the front waistband piece will be used for the back as well, in place of back waistband piece. 2 fois, sur le pli du tissu ; en effet, la pièce de ceinture devant sera utilisée à la fois pour la ceinture devant et en remplacement de la ceinture dos.

Do not cut piece 5-Back Waistband.


x2 – along gathered back crotch seam line

x2 on fold


You can now assemble your legging according to original tutorial, incorporating the following modifications:

  • Do not install elastic along back crotch seam : sew both back pieces together according to instructions for smooth back crotch seam,
  • To assemble waistband, sew both pieces of front waistband together : one of these replaces the back waistband,
  • Assemble waistband to legging: this step will be easier as you won’t have to worry about a clean finish at the tip of the back, since there is no tip.

Oblique finishing bands around ankles

I truly love this finish as it tends to trim down my ankles and emphasize my calves.

This variation is applicable to the mid-calf length of the pattern. The finished length will be between long leggings and mid-calf leggings. The tights will stop right above the ankle.

Yardage and choice of fabric

Refer to yardage given in original tutorial for long leggings.

For this variation, make sure your fabric has an elasticity of at least 80%, to ensure that you will be able to slip your ankle through the pants.

Adapting and cutting pieces

Découpez les pièces 4-Ceinture Devant, 5-Ceinture Dos et 6-Poche conformément au tutoriel de base (sauf si vous réalisez simultanément le hack de la ceinture droite, auquel cas il vous faudra couper deux fois la ceinture devant et pas de ceinture dos).

On pattern pieces 1-Front, 2-Back and 3-Side, around mid-calf length lines, you will have to trace new lines, to create the oblique finishing:

  • Piece 1-Front: trace a line that starts 6cm (2 3/8’’) above mid-calf line in front middle (on curved side of piece toward crotch) and finishes 2cm (3/8’’) below mid-calf line on the side.
  • Piece 2-Back: trace a line that starts 6cm (2 3/8’’) above mid-calf line in front middle (on curved side of piece toward crotch) and finishes 2cm (3/4’’) below mid-calf line on the side.
  • Piece 3-Side: trace a horizontal line 2cm (3/8’’) under mid-calf line.

Cut pieces 1-Front, 2-Back and 3-Side, twice, following this new shape.

Finally, refer to following instructions to trace the oblique finishing bands directy on fold of fabric, twice:

1/ Measure Lc, the width of piece 3-Side along new line,

2/ Measure Ld, the width of piece 2-Back, above newly traced line (beware, width is measured horizontally, NOT along new line), horizontalement, et non pas le long du trait nouvellement tracé),

3/ Calculate a = (Lc/2) – 1

4/ Calculate b = (a+Ld) x 0.85

5/ Trace 2 finishing bands directly on fold of fabric, according to following diagram (8cm = 3 1/8’’ and 22cm = 8 5/8’’).


Mount the pockets, then assemble fronts, backs, sides and waistband according to original tutorial.

Mount oblique finishing bands as shown here after:

1/ Fold bands in half, width wise, with right sides together, aligning oblique edges.

2/ Sew with an overlock stitch or serge along long edges.

3/ Fold bands in half, height wise, with wrong sides together, aligning raw edges and tips.

4/ Pin them in place.

5/ Pin folded bands on right side of leg bottoms, aligning tip of band with inner seam (front/back seam).

6/ Sew with an overlock stitch or serge all around, starting and finishing at the tip.

7/ Repeat on other leg.

All that is left for you to do is slip on your sneakers and head to the gym! No more excuses!!

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