The thumbhole

I love it when my sportswear jackets or hoodies have a thumbhole! I love that it allows you to keep your hand warm in the sleeves! And they’re so easy to make. I’ll show you how!

Watch the video for a quick review of the steps, or read on for more details!

First of all, the assembly that I propose here only works with knit ribbing cuffs, folded and mounted at the end of the sleeves. For sleeves finished with a single hem, you’ll have to create a hole and finish it with a bias for example, or find another technique.

If you want to integrate a thumbhole at the end of your sleeve, you will surely want the finished sleeve to be a little longer, to fall on the hand. So plan to extend the sleeve by 1 to 2 cm (1/4’’ to 1/2’’) (before applying the wrist). I’ll also advise to increase the height of the knit wristbands by a few centimeters so that they are more covering than in the photos above. The table below gives the approximate heights to be taken into account for both wrist bands (2 to 6 years, 8 to 12 years, 14y, 16y and adult sizes).

Regarding cuff length, refer to the pattern you are using. If you want to add cuffs on a pattern that does not provide for them, measure circumference of closed sleeve. If elasticity of your ribbing is more than 50%, cuff length will be equal to 80% of sleeve circumference. For 50% or less elasticity ribbing, cuff length will be 90% of sleeve circumference.

Cut two wrist bands according to the height given in the table above and the width given by your boss.

Fold a band in half, width-wise, with right sides (RS) together.

At each end, 6mm (1/4’’) from raw edge, draw a line, starting at 2.5 cm (1’) to 3 cm (1 ¼’’) from the upper raw edge and stopping at 2 cm (3/4’’) from the fold.

Sew with a straight stretch stitch along these lines.

At one end of the wrist band, make 2 notches in the seam allowance, at both ends of the seam, making sure not to cut the stitches.

Fold the wrist in half, height-wise, to insert the side with the notches into the other side.

Pull the seam allowances through the upper and lower holes, thanks to the notches and align raw edges.

Sew with a straight stretch stitch upper and lower edges, 6mm (1/4’’) from the raw edge, starting at the first and last stitches of the previous seam.

Turn the wrist upside outside out and pin it to the sleeve, aligning raw edges and stretching the wristband to properly distribute the excess fabric of the sleeve (the wrist is normally narrower than the sleeve).

Sew with an overlock stitch all around the sleeve (from the inside), 6mm (1/4’’) from raw edge.

Repeat with the other sleeve, and you’re all done! Don't hesitate to leave a comment or send me pictures of your makes!